GOOD POINTS

•  Quality product – A well designed, built and good-looking gadget. Just what you’d expect from German engineering.

•   Self- and slack-tending – Smooth, friction free self tending when in the right position. One-handed slack-tending is fantastic, especially when on the outer periphery of the canopy and you’re clinging onto the skinniest of branches with your free hand.

•   Pantin friendly – When combined with a foot ascender the Spiderjack provides smooth, easy and faultless ascending, even when you are positioned away from the stem or when ascending from a redirect through a crotch etc.

•   Reduced rope wear – Fast, controlled descending is achievable without the worry of melting or glazing your climbing line as when using a friction hitch.

•   Great for BIG trees – When traversing big voids, or finding yourself moving vertically up and down the tree a lot, the Spiderjack comes into its own.

BAD POINTS

•   Levers – On more than one occasion I had foliage strike the lever of the Spiderjack without warning. On one such time a large chunk of thick ivy fell from above and landed on the device. I dropped approximately 12′ vertically down the stem of the tree before the cam closed again. Other times I have been working in tight crowns and either branches, or my own arms have nudged the lever and the cam has released.

•   Cam operated by climbers weight – Not a problem as long as the climber’s weight is always on the line. However, a number of factors can negate the climber’s weight, thus leading to the cam opening. This has happened to me when working in windy conditions – as the anchor limb and the limb I was stood on swayed independently of each other, my weight, in effect, was taken off the Spiderjack causing the cam to release and slack develop in my system. This has only been a problem on larger trees.

•   Less versatile – The Spiderjack is used to ascend and descend the tree in a DdRT system and that’s pretty much it. Compare this to the versatility of the Hitchclimber with which you can ascend and descend as normal, but also use M-rig and V-rig systems and clip other hardware and software into it by way of additional holes in the pulley. Additional bits and bobs can be used with the SJ by using quickdraws and extra krabs, but it ends up being a big, jangley mess.

•   Not good in smaller trees – Compacted crowns and conifer trees don’t readily lend themselves to the SJ.

CONCLUSION

Although a superb bit of tree climbing equipment I found that the bad points I highlighted above meant that the Spiderjack, unfortunately, is not for me. This is my own personal review of the Spiderjack and in no way a negative reflection of the device itself – it’s just that it doesn’t match my climbing style. I really, really wanted the SJ to work for me, but ultimately the versatility and security that the HC affords is more important to me. I fully admire what Hubert Kowalewski has created for tree climbers, and understand that there are SJ users out there who are more proficient at using it than I am. My Spiderjack hasn’t been totally retired though – it’s in my climbing kit bag along with the Positioner (similar story!) If there are any big trees to do in the future I’m sure I will consider using it again.

This comprehensive 200 page book focuses on our appreciation of old trees from the aesthetic, historical and ecological viewpoints and reminds us of our responsibilities as owners, managers, practitioners and enthusiasts to help prolong their lives and ensure continuity of their habitat & the myriad of associated species that rely on them.

Edited by the renowned consultant and author David Lonsdale (Principals of Tree Hazard Assessment and Management – 1999) it is the collective work of the experiences & wisdom from a number of prominent members of the Ancient Tree Forum.

It is visually appealing, being packed full of portrait and landscape photographs of iconic maiden and pollarded trees in their settings, selected reference images of fungi, invertebrates & their habitats, plus diagrams that help the reader in understanding how trees grow old and example images of the techniques to be employed whilst managing them.

There are 7 chapters covering principles, surveying, protection, conserving habitat, tree work specifications, heritage & management plans.

Appendices cover additional aspects of surveying, UK tree law, estimating mortality rates & method statements

Personal review:

Having read and been inspired by one of the main predecessors of this book, (Helen Reads’ Veteran Trees: a guide to good management – 2000) this has been a long time in the writing but has proved to have been worth the wait as there have been a significant number of new theories & techniques proposed and developed in the last decade or so, and this up to date book covers pretty much all of those.
If I’m honest it’s not a book that I’ve read cover to cover, as for me, it’s more of a reference which I have (and will continue to) dipped in and out of depending on my need for information either at work as a Trees Management Officer or at home as point of reference for a term that I’ve read or heard somewhere.
It would have been a great resource (sadly not published at the time) to have had access to, whilst undertaking units covering biomechanics and veteran trees during further education I undertook last year.

There is a very useful 8 page glossary of terms that in itself I find a valuable resource.

I like the way that you can quickly reference the chapters by thumbing the highlighted edge tabs.

It’s not a coffee table book but the quality of the paper, print and layout is high end and at least what you would require from a working reference.

The ‘Ent’ on the front cover is a great choice as it’s an iconic image summing up Mans connection to ancient trees through mythology and practical history.

From my perspective I’ve struggled to find any negatives or oversights.
I’ve not found any conflicting information in the book in comparison to what is currently being presented in seminars, courses or other related texts.

I highly recommend this to anyone who is already working either in managing and/or consulting about veteran trees, & also for those that are work climbing or felling in and around them.

Published by The Tree Council
ISBN 978-0-904853-09-4

Priced at £30 (I think this is reasonable in comparison to other tree industry reference books)

SRT techniques have been being utilised pretty much since climbing in a controlled, rope aided, manner began. Over the years, mostly through rock climbing and caving, SRT techniques and equipment progressed and eventually began being used in tree climbing. To begin with, it was used as an access system, utilising the benefits of 1:1 movement, ergonomics and efficiency. Once in the canopy, a changeover would be made to a traditional DdRT setup for work positioning. In the first part of the 21st century, climbers began to experiment with using SRT work positioning (SRTWP). Very quickly, SRTWP gear has progressed and it is now at a stage where several pieces of equipment are available on the world market, with popularity seemingly growing by the day.

Up until now, there has been no comprehensive guide, outlining safe practices and techniques. Those who have researched the topic will have found a lot of information online, most notably on arb related internet forums, though this information is rarely verified and most commonly based on individual personal opinion, without backing from industry bodies.

The TCIA, among others, obviously saw a need for one single document, based on experience, testing and verification, to encompass SRT in arb as a whole.

The guide begins with a grounding reminder of the dangers of complacency, stress and tiredness at work, very well placed to provoke a thought for every reader, especially those new to SRT.

In a clear concise format, the guide sets off outlining the history of SRT, outlining the basic premise, as well as comparing SRT/SRTWP to more traditional DdRT techniques. It moves on to touch on standard SRT equipment, then a quick glance at the often repeated, with good reason, pre climb inspection and hazard assessment.

These first few chapters set an excellent base for both experienced and novice SRT climbers. I would imagine that even veterans of the field would have learned something by now, particularly from the history of SRT section.

The book heads on to touch on rope angles, forces and loads. The majority of climbers will have some experience in understanding the physics of rope work and the forces they can create. Being as redirects are commonly used in SRTWP, it is essential for the climber to understand the consequential loading they can create with their rope configuration. The guide manages to put across clear information, without getting bogged down into the very complicated mathematics of the angles of dangle, as is commonly found in other descriptions of the subject.

Moving on through the practical application of SRT techniques, the guide covers many different anchor systems, access systems, work postioning tools, and the practical part of actually working the tree. All of the systems shown for each are given with a full description of their components, accompanied by detailed full colour photographs, their set up and use. Each has a brief list of their strengths and weaknesses, so the reader can quickly compare one setup to another.

Personally I was a bit sceptical about how thorough the guide was going to be, but when I received my copy I was very impressed with the culmination of the efforts of numerous people across several continents. The guide will be useful to veteran and beginner alike, and I’m sure everyone will learn something from it, which they can then put into practice and benefit from. I would thoroughly recommend to anyone interested in SRT to get themselves a copy, even if only for the access systems.

SRT may not be the be all and end all of tree climbing but this guide certainly makes the information available to put it on par with DdRT.

One month on.
The stiffness is definitely starting to ease, the boots have caused no problems, the comfort levels are high, and the steel insteps have not yet been put back on. The grip with these boots is very good, and in some ways too good; it is very easy to damage thin barked tree species. Driving the Land Rover is now becoming easier now that the boots stiffness is easing.
The one feature that I have not mentioned is the OutDry® waterproofing system. The manufactures claim ‘A seamless, pre-sealed laminate treatment applied directly to the leather, OutDry® completely removes the need for a traditional membrane system’, added to this Arbortec add a material layer that incorporates high tensile aramid fibres such as Kevlar® and Cordura®.
What this mean, and more importantly how long will it last?
You will have to watch this space as to date I cannot answer this question. So far my feet are dry, but the boots are still newish. I will update this review in six months time.
Overall I would give these boots nine out of ten, based on their performance so far. I am very happy with these boots despite forking out £200 for them (I hate spending money, as it is so hard to come by).
I have only one concern and that is all the stitching. Most of this stitching is in the highest areas of wear and it is all ready starting to come undone. (See picture on the left)

What I cannot decide is whether these boots are aimed at arb work, or forestry work. These boots with the steel instep screwed in, do neither. If you are working on the ground in the woods and not climbing in and out of machinery, then you will like the extra grip that the steel instep provides. The rest of the time they are a hindrance.

Six months on.
My boots have now gone back to Arbotec. The stitching around the yellow leather has now started to come undone as well. Arbotec have gone out of their way to be helpful and resolve this matter. As I sit and type this I have a new pair of Scafells on my feet. These only have one seam at the back of the boot, so I have high hopes for these new boots.
Only time will tell.

The 2 apps are based on the online galleries at Arbtalk.  The first is the popular fungi directory, managed by David Humphries.  It now contains nearly 100 fungi which are relevant to arborists working in the UK/Europe and North America.  The mobile version of the directory has been designed to be as user friendly as possible, and offers multiple ways of identifying fungi in the field.  The most popular so far has proved to be our unique host species search….simply enter a tree and you are instantly presented with a list of possible matches, couldnt be simpler!!

The Second app is based on the Arbtalk knot guide, with 50 knots presented with a nice clean menu and easy user interface.  The user can quickly find a knot relevant to any application in tree work.

Both apps are priced at a very competitive price of just £2.99 each and are available in both itunes and the google play store via the direct links through www.arboristapps.co.uk

2. More commonly, less serious injuries that are non life threatening, cuts, knocks, sprains etc.

For an Arborist a comprehensive kit should be at hand to cover all bases, and every viehicle should have a large kit with all the nessissary, bandages, eye wash etc.
Also some arborists are chooseing to take a small personal kit into the canopy, attatched to their harness. Stein provide several of these kits and today I would like to review the most basic.

The kit contains; 1 x Basic first aid leaflet1 x Large Wound Dressing1 x Pair Gloves1 x Face Shield1 x Pack 20 plasters2 x Cleansing Wipes

But of this what do you need up the tree, and what is missing?
For life saving situations, the wound dressing is probably most important in a self administerd situation. The plasters are usefull as are the wipes but you could return to the ground to apply them.
The face mask and gloves are for treating a second party, and although the gloves are a good idea if climbing to a injured party, I would keep them with a larger kit on the ground to take with you if climbing to rescue someone.
The face sheild, If you need to proform mouth to mouth, the casualty should be on the ground, not in the tree!
The case, a usefull case, but not sealed for dust or water ingress, so you would want to put your items in a plastic bag first.
What should be in it? Large dressing, whistle, blood cloter, scissors, plasters? anything else should be done on terrafirma.
Conclusion; Better than nothing up the tree, not bad for the glovebox or out and about, but wouldn’t rely on it as a sole first aid kit. Good instruction leaflet included.

The design of the clip itself is essentially the same, the only difference I could make out is the gate is now slightly chunkier. It’s a near microscopic difference but really makes a big difference when fingers are cold and wet.

The swivelling attachment is the best part though. It actually makes the product much more user friendly and improves the functionality quite considerably.
This is due to the clip always lining up with my side D ring with out any twisting and surprisingly, because the whole clip is much longer now, it fits into the hand much more ergonomically so manipulation of the gate is a lot easier.

As its been on the end of my lanyard, it’s been battered around and filled with resin and dirt, this has had no ill effects on the clip.

Overall, not a life changing purchase if you get one but it definitely makes things a touch easier and is well worth the extra money.

In my opinion a good Sawhorse/Log holder Primarily achieves two things, It makes the job of making firewood Easier and Safer. This sawhorse achieves both of these ideals.

The design is simple yet intelligent and a case of why didn’t someone think of this before? The clamping design is protected by patents 1018700.3 and PCT/GB2011/052018 

It comes in disassembled form in a box. I assembled it from scratch in 42minutes using the tools provided in the package, these tools are adequete and its a good thing they are provided but if you have quality tools of your own including power tools with appropriate torque settings I imagine I could have built it in around 15 minutes now I know how it goes . The instructions are not the clearest, I would of preferred lego style photo diagrams. This is only a minor gripe as you will only likely build it once.

Like several other designs I’ve seen it scores because you only lift the log at one end at a time.  This is truly a capable one person sawhorse.  As you lift the log up and over, not up and in through a clamp, it is quick and easy compared to other designs.  The manufacturer says it will take logs up to 400KG, a testimony to its strength in build quality and surprising for how light it is.  I have once lifted a log I could barely manage, not likely to ever lift that much again.  In practice with a long length its not that difficult to put a much heavier piece on than you may do in a conventional horse that supports both ends of the timber….consider using the leverage available over a long piece.

It is a large log horse not a brash holder.  The recommended diameter is 100-360mm (4-14inches).  I would suggest you buy a horse designed for your wood size as if this is not the regular diameter you expect to cut, then this is not the one to buy.  Other sawhorses are available for this purpose from forest master and other manufacturers.  However if this is your size it is excellent to use.  If you wish to use smaller logs there is a smaller version based on the same principles which is lighter and cheaper.

 This model needs a level surface firm enough to take the weight intended as it only has 2 long flat feet, which prevent sinking into soft ground.

The chain mechanism has never slipped on me yet.  It is effective and simple to load, more fiddly to release but because the log piece remaining is small it can just be knocked off so both hands are free to deal with the chain.  I tend to take the chain off completely to make it quicker to load again.  On occasions you cannot get the log as high or level as you may like,  it still works well and the trade off would be a smaller chain link that wouldn’t work as well in other ways.

The toothed V holder coupled with the chain clamp in my experience completely eradicates log spin and nipping of the chainsaw bar, the hold is firm and positive.  You hang  around a 1/3 of your timber over the chain side of the V and the rest at the other side. Which creates a downwards thrust tightening the chain on the other side of the V.  Starting at the longer side cutting logs until you have cut less than a third, (If you cut too much the log will tip up to the wrong end)then go to the smaller overhang end cutting as far as the clamping zone.  Then finish off the rest.  The only log that size is governed is the last piece in the clamp which realistically needs to be 8-10 inches 20-25cm to avoid the Chainsaw fouling the metal components. In use for best practice keep the saw body positively bumped up to the log to prevent swaying, snagging and jolting which could upset the holder and a be danger to the user.  Severely bent tree limbs don’t work well if the log direction veers away from the holder towards or away from the operator due to balance. Best to cut at the bend in the log instead then load two pieces separately.

When you have finished using it you release 2 R clips from 2 pins and it folds flat.  At 1.3metres in length it should go in some car boot spaces and no problem in vans etc. It only weighs around 11KG and can hang like lightweight steps on a wall hook.

To some it may seem an expensive outlay at around £100.(see the Forest-Master.com website for the range and distributors).  There are different versions of this design at various prices so you can choose what suits, but if you had to bend over and saw on the floor this will save a lot of backache.  Plus fouling or damaging the chain with foreign objects, leading to resharpening which is a time waster when not necessary.  Also logs on the floor jam the saw from time to time.  

I really recommend this to home firewood producers and tree surgeons that log up on site for customers or to take away, even if only a part of the timber can be done with this tool.

All in all an excellent simple bit of kit for a quicker, easier and safer logging session, once you are accustomed to the required working techniques.  I’m 5 foot 10 and sometimes feel could benefit from it being a couple of inches higher or telescopically adjustable in height and if the chain release had some sort of quick release it would be even better.  You can however with practice release the chain by pulling it away and downwards from the locking slot.

This is a worthy piece of clever engineering for your kit if you cut your own firewood or log trees up in your line of work.  Although it wont obviously save or make you lots of money you will never know how many bad backs and saw damage downtime you will save.  Taking into account longer sessions due to easy working position, It should recoup its outlay quite quickly.  I started to cut logs on the floor the other day and soon gave up.  I much prefer to use a sawhorse now.

This is a product that seems to have two decisive camps of opinion, possibly more than any other product I can think of and has raised much discussion between staff and colleagues.
One opinion is that it’s a gimmick and is better suited to a toy set.

My opinion is different.*
For years I subscribed to the aforementioned, however, after being bullied into using one I was converted.
Reasons for using one:
1. The saw is easily within reach, always, and is never turned around by wind or work position.
2. It’s easy to replace the saw without looking.
3. It does not get caught on things as much as one would expect.
4. The price is excellent.
5: It appears to work with any length of saw, straight or curved blade.
6. Being able to return the saw to the scabbard so swiftly and easily certainly improves safety.

Reasons for not using one:
1: I honestly can’t think of any.*

Conclusion:
A superbly simple piece of kit that makes climbing all sizes of trees much easier.
Well worth every penny.